how can i shoot arrows off of a flipper rest without ruining the vanes?
i recently found my dads old jennings Compound Bow in the attic and would like to start shooting some targets in the fields and maybe get to the point where i can start hunting with a bow as well as my firearms (like i do now). i am new to the sport of archery so i have looked up some of the basic things i need to know,but so for this is what i know about the bow...it is a non center cut bow, and it has a 30 Inch Draw length with a 60 Pound Draw weight, it is infact a compound bow and i've tried shooting these old easton arrows with long sonft vanes off of this "flipper rest 2" and i have ruined one arrow because it cut into the vanes, hopefully with the information i gave you You Can help me out! thanks for looking!
It is not the flipper rest that is causing the problem. The flipper on the rest moves completely out of the way when the arrow is shot. There can be two things in play here. The vanes on the arrows are old and brittle, which is the most likely cause of the problem. Refletching with new vanes will most likely cure the problem. But you mentioned the bow is not center shot. If that is the case you will need to refletch with feathers instead of plastic vanes. The feathers will lie down when they contact the riser and spring back out to control the arrow as it passes the riser.
I would highly recommend the use of feathers on your bow. This would be the cure you are looking for.
Here is a fun project and one that many wouldn't think of at first. In fact though, in past times many people needed to do this for survival although now it is more of an exercise to do something fun and unique.
This project is making a bow and arrow.
No hold on, making a bow and arrow takes patience and careful judgment. Everything should be done in the right proportion to attain balance. Thus, the right amount of whittling is crucial in bow and arrow making. It is certainly an art.
Seldom can we make a perfect bow and arrow the first time around. It needs a lot of practice before we can come up with accurate ones. But the correct procedure in making them matters a lot. So here are correct steps in making a bow and arrow.
Select an appropriate wood for our bow-deadwood of hazel, ash, yew, or hickory. Wood selection is crucial for our bow and arrow. Usually the correct length for the bow is the height of the user. It should also be flexible and at least an inch in thickness. Then we cut a half-circle notch at one end of the bow. From the tip it should be an inch away.
Make the notch deep enough, about halfway through the thickness of the wood. The half-circle notch should be at a 90 degree angle with the side of the bow facing outward. Then carefully whittle the ends of our bow. Whittling is another crucial thing in Bow Making and a key factor in the success of our bow and arrow. The center of the bow should be thick but its ends should be whittled enough to bend but not break.
With arrows, we may choose the wood varieties above or opt for black locust, oak, or elm. They should be 2 feet long and ½ inch in diameter. Whittle the entire length to make them straight and smooth. At the end of each arrow should be a tiny V or U shaped notch where we insert the string of the bow for a perfect bow and arrow set.
The bowstring is a hemp string about 3 and 3/4 to 4 and 1/2 feet in length. Tie the ends to the notched ends of the bow. Make sure it's ends are looped securely around the half-circle notches. Also, the bow should be curved a bit when the string is already attached. Put a tail at the rear ends of the arrows using small triangular cardboards (1 and 1/4 inch base and 3 and 3/4 inch height) glued about an inch away from the rear tip end.
For an effective bow and arrow, remember to whittle just right. The bow and arrow should have balanced bodies. The hemp string should be shorter than the bow. And the bow material should be strong and straight.
After making our own bow and arrow we can try them out in the woods. Practice hitting targets. Remember, often our bow and arrow are only as good as our skills.
there is a thing that a release clips on to on a bow do you know what it is?
I believe you are thinking of a String Loop, which is what a Trigger Release fits on. The string loop is designed to aid in accuracy and protect the serving and the string from wear caused by the release.
I want to get a new Bow Sight and i cant decide how many pins to get. I like the 3 pin because of its simplicity. but i like the 5 pin because of its versatility,and what are the average ranges of shots and any suggestions of low price but good quality sights. Im only 14 so i don't have as much money as everyone else.
If you have the bow that you will be using to hunt with for the next couple of years then I would say go with the five pin. When hunting its all about precision. Some people can shoot instinctively, I however can't. I use a five Pin Sight on my mathews that was 80 dollars. I don't think this sight is any better then the cheaper Copper John sight in my Cabela's (39.99). The Copper John is only 4 pins. You may look on Sportsmansguide.com in there archery section. They may have something a little more affordable. Good luck.
How to sight your bows for that big buck. Dont pay the pro shops
No history of hunting is complete without mentioning the animals that helped humans survive and still are used for hunting. Today it is more for sport than survival, but for many it still provides food for the table.
In prehistoric times people hunted for food as well as fur and leather for clothing and hides used for shelter. As society became less nomadic, more agricultural it allowed for raising food in one place, but hunting didn't go away.
Even in the 13th century there were laws forbidding hunting during breeding seasons to insure the conservation of game animals.
History of hunting while gunpowder and firearms are relatively recent, bow and arrows, snares and traps have all been used to animals. Hunting dogs were developed to point and "set" game birds, allowing the handlers to toss a net over birds. Faster dogs were used to chase down game.
Falcons and even eagles have been used in the capacity of hunters. With the domestication of the horse, human had a means of speed to get alongside Big Game such as the bison in North America.
Early hunters also used methods of digging pits as a trap and running larger game off cliffs as a means of survival.
Today still hunting, stand hunting, stalking and driving are most common.
Still hunting is tracking animals when it's known they're in the area but not sighted.
Stand hunting is taking a position and waiting for the game to go by - often evidenced as deer stands and placed on pathways or near feeding areas.
Stalking is when the animal is spotted but out of range and the hunter moves within range while staying out of sight.
Driving is when one group of people deliberately makes noise which drives the animals in range or past armed hunters.
Dogs have long played an important part in finding or game.
The scent receptors of a hunting dog's nose are much higher than our own plus they LOVE to hunt and want to please.
Today, as in years past, methods vary, but the history of hunting hasn't changed getting the game for food.
The history of hunting is long, with different dogs for different types of hunts. Explore the basics here.
The characteristics of the Retriever make them indispensable to waterfowl hunters.
Incredibly athletic, and dedicated to whatever the job at hand may be, Pointers are the forward scouts of a hunting team.
The Spaniels' job in the hunt is two-fold. As they approach game, they crouch down and sneak up on their prey, flushing them out of hiding places and into the open air.
You will find that when man hunted in th past or present, a dog has been by his side.
Lizzie Novotny R.N has an informative website about dogs, especially the hunting dog breeds. She raises, trains and shows dogs and horses, and is familiar with all aspects of their care. Find answers to your dog-related questions by visiting her website at http://www.the-hunting-dog.com
About the Author
Lizzie Novotny R.N has an informative website about dogs, especially the hunting dog breeds
. She raises, trains and shows dogs and horses, and is familiar with all aspects of their care. Find answers to your dog-related questions by visiting her website at http://www.the-hunting-dog.com
What Type of bow sights do you recommend?
I'm looking to spend about 100-160 dollars as i have a top of the line bow and i want good quality what do you guys have out there and if you use a PSE X-force gimme some info on it like if you like it or not. I want good answers just not cabelas website telling me to go look at sights obviously I've done that i want your opinion and dont bash on hunting either im serious and i want to make a good investment i take 1 shot 1 kill very seriously and dont want a wounded animal in the woods THANKS
I shoot a dusk devil 5 pin. I like the straight fiber optics and the quality of the sight. I plan on shooting one of those until I find something I like better. I dont like the sights that have wrap around fiber optics. They seem to be fragile to me. I have a Trophy Ridge and broke the fibers while elk hunting in Idaho.... I was not a happy camper. The dusk devil works very well in low light situations also. I am not real big on PSE bows. I am sure your is fine but have had some buddies that have had trouble with them. One of them the cam bushing was bad right off the shelf.
Clearing clutter is always a priority in my life as a professional organizer. Sometimes I go room to room and look at everything and think, “If I was moving would I take this with me”? Sometimes I think “why on earth would I want to take it with me, I don’t even like it any more or it has been there so long I never really see it”.
Whether you are planning a move or just thinking about thinking about a move this is a good technique to use to clear clutter in your home before you actually plan a move.
5 moving day tips to take the sting out of moving:
1. Start early to plan what you will keep and what you don’t want to keep, don’t wait until the last week to plan what you are taking and what you are donating to charity or maybe setting aside for a garage sale. Starting early takes the stress out of making decisions and gives you the opportunity to clear clutter before it gets packed. It also gives you time to find a mover or reserve a truck if you are moving yourself. Start with one room at a time deciding what to keep or what to let go of and systemically go through your home early as decisions are harder to make when you are under stress and a close deadline.
·Do not take things that You Can’t use, that are broken, that you don’t like or that you haven’t used for years.
·Now is the time to “lose” things you don’t like that were given to you but you were afraid to part with before you were moving.
·Take only things that light you up and you want to live with.
2. I am always amazed at the amount of people who move all their stuff and then realize their new home can’t hold everything the former one did. Do your research so you know how much stuff you can comfortable fit into your new space. Or people get to their new place and wonder why on earth they kept so much stuff. (We’re all probably guilty of this if we have ever moved).
3. Label boxes according to what room they will go in along with some of the contents like dishes or glasses. Avoid stuffing one more thing in a box just because there is room if it doesn’t go in that room. If you do it will cost you more time later and remember you are clearing clutter, not adding to it.
4. If you are going to have to store boxes in your new place for awhile be sure to write the contents on the box using a 3 X 5 card or give the box a number and in a note book write the corresponding number with the items that are in that box. File the notebook in your files under Move so you can find it later.
5. Pack a box for the first night in your new place. Put a pair of sheets, some comfort food, a change of clothes, night clothes and if you don’t make a separate box for tools; put in some tools to reassemble the beds. Mark this box in big bold letters and put a bright color in stripes on it so it is easily recognizable. This will make the first night much less frustrating when you know you will have something to eat and someplace to sleep and clean clothes in the morning.
Moving is often stressful no matter how many plans have been made and how flawless the preparations have been. Just count on it and that alone will make it all easier. Remember nothing is forever, moving day comes and goes.
Have you ever forgotten an appointment or an important date? Do you think of things you need to do later but don’t remember to do them because you have no place to write them down? Do you have one place to write your most frequently used phone numbers and addresses? How would you like a memory prompter? Do you need a stress reliever in your life? Do you want to clear the clutter in your life? Obtaining a day planner and using it can clear the clutter and organize your life.
“The worst pencil and paper is better than the best memory”. That is so true. Everyone needs a planner to help them clear the clutter in their lives, home and work. Just having a planner does not mean you will turn into a lean mean organizing machine. You need to learn how to effectively use it and then do just that—use it.
Here are 6 things you need to know to get your day planner to work for you:
1. Choose your planner in the size, color and feel that works best for you.
·Size: They come in all sizes from very large too small. Just because you carry a large bag does not mean a large one is best for you. You need to consider the weight, convenience of using it, how bulky it is and how you will be using it. Your planner will be your life balancer, record keeper, family scheduler, stress reliever, productivity enhancer, a place to record ideas, your goal planner, and telephone and address book.
·Look and Feel: Choose a planner that you enjoy holding and working with. Color and texture are important. If you get a color you dislike chances are you won’t use it.
·If you prefer an electronic planner check it out to make sure it will meet your needs.
2. Chose a planner that has a monthly view. It must also have either a daily view which is best if you have a lot of things to do every day or a planner with a weekly view. When you schedule anything write it on the monthly view and then on the daily or weekly view pages. I can’t emphasize enough how important it is to record everything on the monthly view so you don’t ever over book events or appointments.
3. In the front of your planner have a page for a master To Do list. As you think of things you want or need to do, write them down. Then you don’t have to keep thinking about it and this will free up your time for other things. If it is something that is to be done in that month, write the task on a day in the weekly or daily view page that you think you will be able to do it.
4. You can use different colored dividers to organize your planner to separate topics such as “work,” “home,” “shopping list,” etc.
5. Use a bookmark to mark the page on the current date.
6. List your daily tasks and appointment schedule each day and as you accomplish them, check them off. If you don’t get a task done place an arrow by it and move it forward to a day you think you will be able to do it.
A planner can help balance your life because you learn to prioritize and you save time by not having to remember all the things you have to do. You get more done without even trying because you have written your ideas down and then you don’t forget what it was you wanted or needed to do. Your planner can say no for you as you can see what you have scheduled. A day planner is a must to clear clutter from your life.
Marilyn is a professional organizer and invites you to visit her website www.marilynbohn.com, She is a sought after public speaker and author who is passionate about teaching ways to organize your life and how to reduce clutter. She works with women in their homes and offices. On her web site she teaches you to get rid of clutter by using her Lights On Organizing System. She provides practical information on how to declutter your home, office and life. In her blogs, articles, and videos she gives timely tips on how to clear clutter and how to declutter everything in your home and office. She is the author of a book called Go Organize! Conquer clutter in three simple steps which will be in major bookstores in December 2009.
About the Author
Marilyn is a creative organizer who helps women, seniors & their families to create space and end
clutter in homes and offices by setting up Custom Made systems.
Visit her website http://www.marilynbohn.com for
free organizing tips.
How to Strip, Clean and Fletch an Arrow - Part One
US $173.51
